Thursday, September 22, 2011

I just changed the alternator and battery on my 1966 Chrysler New Yorker and now it won't run?

I JUST REPLACED THE BATTERY AND THE ALTERNATOR BUT IT WON橳 RUN. THE BATTERY DIED ON ME AND IT SEEMED AS THOUGH IT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED BASED ON HOW OLD IT WAS SO I STARTED THERE. AFTER A FEW DAYS IT STARTED TO REPEAT HAVING A HARD TIME STARTING NEEDING A JUMP TO START SO I MADE THE NEXT MOVE TO REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR. WITH THE ALTERNATOR REPLACED AND ALL CONNECTIONS TO THE ALTERNATOR CLEANED, CONNECTIONS RESTORED IN CORRECT LOCATIONS AND CORRECT BELT TENSION I CANNOT GET IT TO STAY RUNNING. THE ENGINE TURNS OVER AND SOUNDS LIKE IT WANTS TO RUN BUT DIES WITHIN ABOUT 2 SECONDS. I CHARGED THE BATTERY AND TESTED THE VOLTAGE MAKING SURE IT GOT A FULL CHARGE BUT IT STILL WON橳 GO. I HAVE NOTICED THAT THE CLAMPS FOR THE BATTERY POSTS ARE A LITTLE COROADED SO THOSE ARE GETTING REPLACED ASAP AS WELL AS REPLACING THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR. ALSO, IT WONT START OFF OF A JUMP START... ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS?I just changed the alternator and battery on my 1966 Chrysler New Yorker and now it won%26039;t run?
Voltage regulator is a possibility, it may not be allowing enough voltage through.



A weak condenser can certainly cause it to not run correctly, as can worn out points. They're usually sold as a set, so replace both at the same time.



Another item that can cause it to start and not keep running is the ignition ballast.



What's a ballast? you might be asking. It's a part of the points type ignition system that reduces the voltage to the coil to about 9 volts. Many had a bypass that allowed the full 12v to the coil during start-up for easier starts, some were temperature controlled where they allowed a full 12v to the coil, then once they started to warm up, the voltage would decrease, and they can get very hot.



The ballast will be mounted to the firewall, on my '65, it was near the center on the driver's side. It will be a ceramic block with a metal bracket to hold it onto the firewall, and a terminal on each side, one from the battery, and one to the coil. It should be easy to follow the wires to see where each one goes. You can test the ballast with a voltmeter to see if it's allowing voltage through, or an ohmmeter to see if it's reading a certain amount of ohms, or an open circuit. An open circuit means it's broken, of course, and needs replacing, if it allows anywhere from about 8v to 12v, it should be okay.



You'll probably need to learn how to set the points yourself since there's not too many technicians who know how to do that anymore (I've known a few who had never even heard of points before). Here's a link to an article explaining how on Allpar.com http://www.allpar.com/fix/points.htmlI just changed the alternator and battery on my 1966 Chrysler New Yorker and now it won%26039;t run?
less typing in caps and more buying a newer car.I just changed the alternator and battery on my 1966 Chrysler New Yorker and now it won%26039;t run?
sorta limited on info but 1966 new yorker im sure still has a points ignition system. these can be very picky to get right. i would take the dist cap off and sand the points or replace them (they're cheap). you will need to set them with a fealer guage.. good luck hope this helps



http://www.uartech.com/I just changed the alternator and battery on my 1966 Chrysler New Yorker and now it won%26039;t run?
gotta reset the alarm system/thats what is now shutting you DOWN/no points in that systemI just changed the alternator and battery on my 1966 Chrysler New Yorker and now it won%26039;t run?
It might be a bad ground. This might sound crazy but connect one side of your positive jumper cables to the connection on the starter and ground the negative side, then connect the other ends to your battery and try to start it. If it starts then it has to be the battery's ground or the connection to the starter.I just changed the alternator and battery on my 1966 Chrysler New Yorker and now it won%26039;t run?
If your '66 still has the original points and condensor distributor you may have a bad condensor and a bad condensor will perform as you have stated, poor running right up to the point of not starting at all. Or it's possible the points have slipped and are closed, gap between .014 - .019 ( I believe were the specs).



Chrysler Corp. replaced the old distributor for just that reason, reliability.I just changed the alternator and battery on my 1966 Chrysler New Yorker and now it won%26039;t run?
Check your points for burning and pitting, better yet, replace them and the condenser. Also could be the ignition ballast resistor. A symptom of a bad resistor is that the engine will start but as soon as you let go of the key, it dies. Check it with an ohmmeter. A bad one will read very high resistance, or infinity. It's mounted on the firewall, about 2-3 inches long, half inch thick, looks like a white crayon with a wire coming off each end. Chrysler products of the this vintage were notorious for burning these resistors out. Lots of owners used to carry a spare in their glovebox.I just changed the alternator and battery on my 1966 Chrysler New Yorker and now it won%26039;t run?
Like mark b said. voltage regulator. black box on the firewall 4%26quot;x4%26quot;